First item!
Charlie Papazian’s “The Complete Joy of Home Brewing” – The Complete Joy of Homebrewing Fourth Edition: Fully Revised and Updated : Papazian, Charlie: Amazon.de: Bücher
That’s a great book, full of good recipes and even better advice.
I’m going to assume something here – that your average batch will be about 20-25 liters in size. There are some kits out there which do 5-liter batches, but given the amount of work that goes into making a batch of beer, it seems trivial to brew only ten bottles of beer. That’ll be gone in a day or two if you do it right :).
Next up: a basic brewing kit.
Wherever you get it, this should include at least the following:
– a decent sized fermenter (20-30 liters or so)
– a bottling bucket of about the same size as the fermenter (could be a second fermenter, they can do double duty), ported towards the bottom of its side with a spigot/faucet
– an airlock for the fermenter
– some kind of capper (usually comes with 50-100 caps)
– stirring paddle
– cleaning compound (some brand of Oxi cleaner)
– a siphon for moving finished beer from the fermenter to the bottling bucket. Bonus points if it can be started without sucking on it.
– thermometer
– hydrometer (measures specific gravity of the beer before and after fermenting) with testing tube
Should cost between 50-75 euros. Really fancy ones might go to a hundred.
Usually starter kits will come with a mix of additional stuff, but this is where you’ll be glad you bought the more expensive one. This one appears to be pretty much perfect: https://braumarkt.com/Starter-kit-beer-brewing-PREMIUM
Next: a kettle to boil your ingredients on the stove.
This should be a solid metal vessel of 20-30 liters capacity, with a lid, and make sure it’s compatible with your stove top (i.e., if you have an induction stove, make sure it has a steel bottom). It doesn’t have to be exactly your fermenter’s capacity, but you want to make sure you have plenty of room in there to avoid boil-overs.
Speaking of which, boil-overs will happen. They just will. It’s going to be a hot, sticky mess. But it’s a rite of passage. Consider it that you’re making an offering to whichever god rules over alcohol in your pantheon of choice. Relax, have a beer, and laugh it off.
A kettle is probably going to be your most expensive item on the list here. Even a 12-liter one runs fifty bucks here in the EU, and the larger, heavier-sides varieties will get up into several hundred Euros if you’re not careful.
On the plus side, your brew kettle can also serve for making soups and stews for large parties, so you can use that as an explanation for your spouse. Here’s a good one at a pretty reasonable price: Easybrew Brewkettle 36 liter with tap – buy cheap at Braumarkt
Next Item: Bottles!
This part is going to be easy. Since it takes 1-2 weeks for beer to ferment out, you have some time to buy some beer and empty the bottles, saving them for re-use at home. If you prefer a crown-capped bottle, that’s fine, but I like the swing-top ceramic caps with the little gasket. They make the effort of bottling a LOT easier.
Regardless, you’ll need 45-50 clean and empty bottles to receive your first batch. If you decide to go with swing-tops like me, I have found that the brand “Mönchshof“ uses a glue which is very soluble in water, and that means the labels will just slide right off in the dishwasher. If you’re going to do another batch before the first one is finished, you’ll need more bottles – which means emptying more bottles :). Maybe have some friends over to help you free up some bottles while you watch a game or something.
I have also found it very useful to buy beer in 11-bottle cases for carrying the brew around. The 20-bottle ones are workable, but they’re very clunky and hard to manage if you have stairs in your house. Easier to carry two 11-bottle cases, one in each hand.
Best part of this, is that when a bottle gets old (the gasket starts to develop cracks, etc.) you can simply return it and get a new one from the market. You also are basically paying fifteen cents a bottle and four or five Euro for a case, whereas you’d pay over a Euro per bottle and eight to fifteen for a case if you purchase them new.
Next: A clean, empty book.
Preferably hardcover with a glossy finish, because it might get splashed. This is going to be your recipe book. You write down everything in here. Ingredient list, timing when you added what, the original gravity / finishing gravity, tasting notes, etc. There’s going to come a day when you hit on a really, really good recipe and you’re going to want to make it again. If you don’t write everything down, you risk forgetting a critical step. I still have my original book, goes back to 1992, and I’m really glad I kept it around.
Last Item: A pre-boxed beer extract kit.
I’m going to steer you towards extracts as a starting point, because they’re easier to deal with, you’ll have a greater success rate with them, and the beer you get from these is a great jumping-off point. If you end up enjoying the hobby a lot, I can give you some pointers on what sort of equipment you’ll need for doing a grain mash, but that sort of complication is for when you really want to dig in and start getting nerdy about it.
So we’ll start with a good solid extract kit to give you the best chances for a great kick-off.
Many extracts come pre-hopped, which is also a good place to start, but I think you’ll want to start buying hops and hopping your beer on your own almost immediately. We’ll start with an all-in-one kit, but your second batch of beer is likely to be the place where you want to buy hops and hop it yourself. I’ll mention that in my “optionals” category.
For the hopped kits, good brands include “Mangrove Jack’s”, “Munton’s”, and you’ll quickly start to see some common names. Here’s a good example of a starter:
Mangrove Jack’s Craft Series Irish Red Ale (braumarkt.com)
That’ll make 20L of a nice red ale, and everything you need is in the package. For now you want to stick with ales, as lagers require a cold-storage space for your fermenter. Unless you have access to a walk-in fridge or you have a separate kuhlschrank that can fit your fermenter, a lager will be…difficult.
You’re ready to brew your first batch of beer!
Here’s the timeline I follow:
Friday night or Saturday: clean and rinse my fermenter, get my ingredients lined up, get the kettle ready. Cleaned gear dries overnight.
Sunday: brew day – you can expect a brew to take 2-4 hours from start to finish, depending on how fast you can get your kettle to boil all that volume. When you start working with all- or partial-grain mashes, that’s going to add another 2-3 hours to your timeline. With a wort chiller I’ll pitch the yeast as soon as I’ve cooled things down.
Sunday night or Monday morning: If I didn’t use a wort chiller, by now the wort has cooled enough that I can pitch the yeast.
Fermentation takes 1-2 weeks. Longer if I do a secondary ferment.
When I’m ready to bottle…
Friday night or Saturday: Bring the bottles out of storage, make sure the gaskets aren’t cracked, and that there isn’t any gunk in the bottle (PBW if there is). Make sure I have enough bottles for the volume in the fermenter. Wash them all with Oxi and park them to dry overnight.
Sunday: bottling day. Transfer the brew from the fermenter into bottles. Set aside three bottles and store the rest in a cool, dry place (Kellar).
Over the next three weeks, I open one bottle each week to test how the carbonation is coming along and see how the beer looks. Usually it’s ready by week 2, but week 3 is guaranteed to be finished.
Quick advice:
- Sanitize everything that your beer will come into contact with using Oxi cleaner (I’ll link another variety in my “optionals” section). Clean and sanitize everything the day before you brew, then let it air-dry overnight turned upside-down so you don’t accumulate wild yeast and other contaminants. Make sure your work area is clean. You can’t be too cautious when sanitizing. Everything else can go perfectly, and your beer will end up tasting like soap or worse because some wild microbe got in and had its way with your beer.
- Tap water in this area is perfect for making beer. Munich has some of the cleanest water in the world, and the mineral content can’t get much better for brewing. Don’t waste money on getting bottled or distilled water, or additives to change its nature unless you want to really perfectly emulate a specific region. Excess minerals will fall out of solution during the ferment.
- Don’t open your fermenter unnecessarily. Once you pour the beer in there, cover it (do *not* seal it air-tight right away, as it cools the air inside will contract and create suction, making it really hard to re-open the fermenter) and wait for it to cool down. Once cool, you can pitch the yeast, and then you seal it air-tight with an airlock to let CO2 out.
- Don’t pitch your yeast when the beer is still hot! If you have an infrared thermometer for testing when you’re ill, that’s a perfect tool to check the temperature of the fermenter without opening it. Once it’s down to 20C or less (might need to wait overnight), you can pitch the yeast in it.
- “Wake up” the yeast before pitching. Make 300ml of “starter” using either some of the beer or some table sugar (100g should be plenty). Dissolve the beer/sugar into the water, let it cool, and then dump the dry yeast in there, stir. Let it sit for half an hour, the yeast will dissolve and the stuff will get cloudy. When foam starts to form on the surface, it’s awake and ready to start making beer.
- Buy a bottle of cheap, crappy vodka. Use this in your fermenter’s airlock instead of water. This is just in case the fermenter cools a little bit and sucks fluid into your beer from the airlock. Cheap vodka will kill and disinfect anything that gets into it (like fruit flies), won’t add any strange flavors to your beer, and adds an extra layer of protection. You can also use it to make extracts of spices and fruits to add certain flavors to your beer, or just to have in the kitchen to use with food.
- Make sure your bottles are clean, inside and out. Rinse them as soon as you empty them, and run them through the dishwasher. A small bottle brush is a worthwhile investment, as is some PBW cleaner to get rid of stubborn caked-in residue. If a bottle has some kind of stuff in it that you can’t get out, don’t use it. Return it and get a new one.
- Once you empty a bottle, give it a quick rinse with water and run it through the dishwasher. Then store it upside-down and open before its next use to avoid dust settling in it or mold growing on it.
- Don’t be afraid to taste your beer! Set a little aside before pouring into the fermenter and let it cool to get a taste of what it’s like beforehand. Some some aside when bottling to build an understanding of what happened in the fermenter.
- Don’t stress out. Just have a beer, relax, enjoy.
Optional Stuff
Hops and hop bags – Hops are basically green flowers, which produce an oily acid called “alpha acids” which are responsible for bittering and preservation of your beer. I generally prefer full-flower hops myself, but I have also used pelletized hops with no problems at all. Hop bags are disposable muslin cloth sacks that you can cram your hops into and tie off, then drop in the kettle for boiling. When done, you can fish them out with a strainer and rinse with boiling water to recover the wort that is clinging to your hops.
Warning for Pet Owners – hops both before and after use are deadly poisonous to dogs and cats. Something in the alpha acids of the hop turns into a weird alkaloid in their digestive system, which will destroy their liver and kill them painfully. Spent hops should go straight into covered trash.
Bottle filler – this is only marked optional because most of the starter kits don’t come with it automatically. Costs less than five bucks, and will save you a lot of grief opening and closing the valve on your bottling bucket. Basically you attach this to your bucket with a short length of silicon hose, open the valve on the bucket, and now you have a spring-loaded filling wand. Abfüllröhrchen | Hobbybrauerversand, 3,19 €
Wort chiller – your hot pre-beer in the kettle is called “wort”, and getting it down to cool temperature quickly is a valuable trick. This helps prevent contamination, and makes your wort more comfortable for the yeast you’re going to add. A chiller is a great tool to accomplish this. Usually these come in the form of a big copper or steel coil that you attach to your faucet with some silicon hose. You attach the hose to the faucet, dip the copper coil into the boiling-hot wort, turn on the cold water (making sure the return hose empties into the sink), stir a bit and in minutes your wort will be at pitching temperature. That’s a big plus.
Measuring pitcher – a 3L or 5L plastic pitcher can be really useful in getting water into various containers that might not fit under your kitchen faucet.
Funnel – if you have a fermenter with a small neck (most of the clear PET plastic ones will), a funnel is a must-have. Most brew shops have big funnels for just this purpose.
Paper towels – remember how I said you’d have boil-overs? Yeah, you’re going to spill water, too. You’ll be glad to have a few extra rolls of paper towels around.
Kitchen scale – something that’ll handle measuring up to a couple hundred grams will be sufficient. When you start measuring hops for your own brew recipe you’ll need to start being more precise.
Irish Moss / Finings – there are several types of “fining” products, the best of these I’ve found to be “irish moss”, which basically is a dried seaweed called “caragheen”. You add this to the boil about fifteen minutes before you turn off the heat, and it ends up in your fermenter. Because it is very mildly charged, it attracts proteins out of solution during the ferment, which improves the clarity of your finished beer.
Unhopped Malt Extract – sometimes it’s difficult to determine which malts are already hopped and which ones aren’t. BrewFerm is a brand that makes it pretty clear – they include a marking just above the title of their malt type with “unhopped” in black. You can also usually assume that if a can of malt comes with its own yeast and is marketed as a “kit”, then the malt is already hopped. Weyermann is another brand that specializes in unhopped malt extract, though theirs is offered in only large-size containers of 4kg each. That’s about 1kg too much for a 20-liter batch, but if you’re pushing up into the 25L range it can work out just about perfectly.
Blowoff hose / silicon hose – during the first day or three of the ferment, a beer can be…enthusiastic. It’ll push up a big load of foam, and in the limited confines of a fermenter, the only way out is through your airlock. This will happen, it’s just part of the deal. But if you set up a blow-off hose instead of an airlock for those first few days, you’ll catch the excess and can direct it into a waiting bucket or pitcher for disposal. It’s also useful to have a few meters of extra hose around for when you buy a wort chiller.
Beer “enhancers” – these are sold in 1kg bags, usually labeled for light, dark, etc. They’re generally 50/50 dry malt extract and brewer’s sugar. If you want to up the alcohol content of your beer without dramatically affecting its character, adding one or more of these is very useful. Gozdawa is a really solid brand for these.
Carbonation Drops – if you go “by the book”, then at bottling time you normally would dissolve a cup or so of malt into some water and add that to your finished beer, which would give you just enough sugar in each bottle to provide natural carbonation. An alternative to this is “carbonation drops”, which are basically small sugar pills. You add one to each bottle, fill and cap, and your sugar requirement is dealt with. I did the cup-of-malt thing for a thirty years, and tried the drops a few years ago – both methods work very well, and the drops add a dose of convenience at bottling time which I really like. I’ll probably keep using them for most brews.
Oxi Cleaner– Stuff like “Chemipro” (Chemipro® OXI 1kg Braureiniger Reiniger für alle leicht beschmutzten Materialien und Flaschen beim Bier selber Brauen : Amazon.de: Küche, Haushalt & Wohnen) is really good for sanitizing your gear before you brew / ferment, and great for cleaning bottles. You mix some with hot water, rinse your gear with it, and let it air-dry overnight. Very helpful, very easy, and a 1kg bottle of this stuff goes a really long way.
PBW cleaner – PBW (Multifunktionelles Reinigungsmittel für die Nahrungsmittel- und Getränkeindustrie 450g : Amazon.de: Gewerbe, Industrie & Wissenschaft) is sort of the “big brother” to Oxi, and when you have equipment that has particularly stubborn staining or gunk on it, you make some of this PBW with hot water, fill the container, and let it sit overnight. PBW can eat almost any organic contaminant. Definitely want to rinse the equipment with clean water after exposure to PBW, and make sure there isn’t any left in the container. It will ruin the flavor of your beer if there’s some that gets left over in a fermenter or bottle.
Bottle brush – definitely worthwhile, though you won’t need it much. Your friends and family will end up returning bottles to you on occasion that have been allowed to get a little moldy. Having a brush and some PBW will be a good thing.
Bottle tree / drying rack – bottle trees are a set of threaded racks that fit on a large base designed to collect drip-waste, usually cost about twenty bucks, and are super-useful when you are washing and drying your bottles. This one is similar to (might be the same one) as mine: Abtropfständer für 80 Flaschen | Hobbybrauerversand, 19,99 €. The top rack will seat a bottle rinser, so you can set up your system to do a quick three-squirt with Oxi from the rinser, and drop the bottle directly on the rack.
Bottle rinser – if you’re getting a tree, get the rinser. Flaschenspüler Avvinatore | Hobbybrauerversand, 15,99 €. Make a liter or two of hot water with a little bit of Oxi in it, and fill the bowl up, and park the rinser on top of the tree. You then can give each bottle a couple of squirts of solution to clean it out for sure, set it to dry on the tree, and leave it overnight to be ready for bottling day tomorrow.
Bottle jet – this is a device that screws onto your faucet where the aerator goes, and is able to direct a jet of water up into a vessel. Very handy for rinsing out fermenters and bottles. Deluxe Stainless Steel Bottle Washer, 19,95 € (hobbybrauerversand.de)