Alright \u2013 I won\u2019t bore you with the individual parts step-by-step of assembly, but I will give you a broad overview and a tools list for it.<\/p>\n
Sprues<\/span> \u2013 generally the parts sprues were pretty clean, very little flash, and fit was very good.\u00a0 The model from which this one was drawn has obviously gone through a few generations, and we\u2019re seeing the benefits of that.<\/p>\n One thing I didn\u2019t notice at first:\u00a0 there are TWO \u201cD\u201d sprues.\u00a0 One with the original zimmerit Tiger parts, and one with the clean-sides WoT parts.\u00a0 They have a lot of overlap in parts, but the original zimmerit sprue contains some elements that are not duplicated.<\/em>\u00a0 Italeri fortunately calls out the WoT-specific stuff with red highlighting in the instructions, but I didn\u2019t really understand that until I was a good way in.\u00a0 Didn\u2019t cause me any problems, just a little anxiety when thinking that I had some missing bits.<\/p>\n Decals<\/span> \u2013 some good memorable WoT items there, which I\u2019ll use on my build.\u00a0 No decals from the original Tiger model are here, so if you\u2019re looking to use this kit as an authentic-style WW2 model, prepare for that.<\/p>\n Tools<\/span> \u2013 in the build process, I kept my tool set pretty limited, since most people playing WoT won\u2019t have a full bench like I do.\u00a0 Here\u2019s all I used during assembly:<\/p>\n Tools for the Tiger 1 build<\/p><\/div>\n Although there are many parts, most go together without any trouble at all.\u00a0 The tracks will be the primary challenge of assembly (some sections need to be put together one link at a time, then formed to the wheels while the glue is still moldable \u2013 see the Italeri website, they have a good video demonstrating how to handle these).\u00a0 If you put them together on a hard, flat surface, you can string 6-10 of them together before sliding them into position over the wheels.\u00a0 The second-hardest assembly task is installing handles \u2013 these tiny little bits are really hard for me, because my hands aren\u2019t as steady as they used to be.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n Assembly completed<\/p><\/div>\n Still and all, I got it done in four sessions of about 2-3 hours each while watching TV with my wife.\u00a0 You can probably move faster than me.\u00a0 I would have done it quicker, but two of those sessions were assembling tracks, and I didn\u2019t want to turn the hull over onto a track that was still drying.\u00a0 Safer to let it cure for a few hours or overnight, then do the other side.<\/p>\n I originally wanted to go with a \u201cblown-up\u201d vehicle, since that\u2019s what Tigers are best at in WoT, but after completing it I decided it was just a little too pretty for that.\u00a0 So instead it\u2019ll get a camo job and a decent basing done before finishing.\u00a0 I\u2019ll still give it some battle-damage (some gashes, maybe a hole or two from a pesky E25 or Sherman), but the overall tank will remain intact.<\/p>\n One thing to note:\u00a0 the instructions include a cupola machine-gun as part of the install.\u00a0 This isn\u2019t part of the in-game tank, if that\u2019s what you\u2019re really after.\u00a0 I put it on because it looks cool.\u00a0 Your mileage may vary.<\/p>\n Primer coated in matte black<\/p><\/div>\n After assembly, I primed it up with matte black all over. \u00a0(For reference, I use an acetone-thinned primer here, but I don’t have much preference.) \u00a0This helps to create shade effects as the black tends to give more depth beneath the surface paint job.\u00a0 It\u2019ll also make scratches look a bit more real and provide some good interior shadow. \u00a0The objective here is to look good for a camera, and for an observer approximately 1 meter away.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n PART 2:<\/strong><\/p>\n <\/p>\n A handy bit of domestic larceny to help out with Helga the Tiger here<\/p><\/div>\n A quick update here – after the primer is completely dry (I leave it for 24 hours, probably not necessary to wait quite that long), I stole some of my wife’s hairspray and gave the model a good coat all over. \u00a0You can probably use el-cheapo stuff from the drugstore if you don’t have any handy in the house. \u00a0Really, any kind of hairspray will do the trick just fine. \u00a0Apply it and let it dry completely. \u00a0If you’re doing it on your workbench, make sure to stick a sheet of paper or something in between where your model is and any sensitive surfaces like magnifiers, electrical equipment, etc., or that stuff will get a coat of it on it as well.<\/p>\n The objective here is to give me a water-soluble base on top of my primer (which is *not* water-soluble), which will wait under my hull coat for when I’m almost done painting. \u00a0At that point, I’ll get a q-tip (you brits call them ear buds or something), soak it in water, and wet down edges and spots where crew would walk, then use the dry end or a toothpick (cocktail stick) to scrape away tiny little chips of the hull paint to give it some wear-and-tear look. \u00a0I’ll let this dry tonight, and tomorrow I’ll slap on the base hull color of a dark sandy yellow (not taxicab yellow, but more of a summer wood kind – WW2 fans will recognize it, it’s often referred to as “dunkelgelb” or “German yellow” among modelers). \u00a0Once that gets dry, I’ll mask off some sections and start developing the camo pattern.<\/p>\n Links to other entries: \u00a0\u00a0Second Entry<\/a>; Third Entry<\/a>; Fourth Entry<\/a>; Final<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" I picked up one of these models to participate in the WoT contest coming up, and figured I’d keep a build log as I went along – so if you like building models or just want to see some of … Continue reading \n
![\"Tools](\"http:\/\/borkedcode.com\/wp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/01\/IMG_7494.jpg\")
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